Last Updated on: 11th January 2025, 11:36 am
Day 13: Gokyo (4750m)
Many trekkers ascend Gokyo Ri for sunrise or sunset views and therefore ascend or descend in the dark. We preferred hiking up in the daylight with the warmth of the sunshine, so this morning we set off up Gokyo Ri (5357 m).
My husband was going to the top and I said I would evaluate how I felt as I ascended. I got about halfway up but was so slow at that stage that I decided to stop there. I regret this decision; I had lots of time and could have rested and then resumed. My husband’s photo above confirms how spectacular the views are from the top of Gokyo Ri.
After lunch, I went up one of the paths at the back of the village up the wall of Ngozumpa Glacier. From there you can look out over the glacier at close range. It is the longest glacier in Nepal [1].
A day hike that looks wonderful is to Scoundrel’s Viewpoint. You proceed north to near the Fifth Lake at about 5000m for views from a different angle of Everest, Lhotse, etc.
Our measurements
Distance: 4.6 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 564 m
Nett elevation gain: 0 m
Day 14: Gokyo (4750 m) to Dole (4040 m)
When we planned our itinerary, we did not intend to cross any of the High Passes, but we did say that we would re-evaluate if we were feeling strong. As I was so slow going up Gokyo Ri, we abandoned all thoughts of crossing Renjo La and headed back the same way we came.
We were surprised at the number of trekkers crossing one or both of Cho La and Renjo La.
I started the day wearing my thin long sleeve top, thin fleece, thick fleece, beanie and gloves. After about an hour, I took off the thick fleece and beanie. We stopped at Machhermo for an early lunch.
Between Machhermo and Dole we were pleased we could see the views that were obscured by mist a few days before.
The path descending into Dole had many loose stones which required careful walking.
Our measurements
Distance: 13 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 194 m
Nett elevation gain: 4040 m – 4750 m = -710 m
Day 15: Dole (4040 m) to Phortse (3810 m)
As we had the time, we decided to head to Phortse instead of walking directly back to Namche.
The morning was warmer than the day before. The path down to the river before Phortse Thanga was steep and rugged. After crossing the bridge, we hiked up the slope and were rather surprised to come across a few yaks roaming in the forest.
Our lodge was across and higher in the village. As usual, we selected a sunny spot in the dining room to have lunch.
That afternoon we walked a short way along the high scenic trail. We could see Tengboche and Deboche across the valley. We did not stay out long though as clouds were blowing in.
As was often the case, the late afternoon was really cold. The lodge only started the stove fire at 16:30. I did ask them to start it earlier but being an independent trekker, I did not hold much sway.
The lodge was full that night and our guide had to sleep in a tent outside. Nepali trekking staff have to sleep in overflow accommodation when the lodges are full.
Our measurements
Distance: 5.2 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 287 m
Nett elevation gain: 3810 m – 4040 m = -230 m
Day 16: Phortse (3810 m) to Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
It was a warm morning. We descended to the river, the same way we had come the day before. On the other side of the valley, we continued past Phortse Thanga and then up Mong La and a teahouse with great views for lunch.
Later on, an icy wind came up bringing mist. I made the mistake of not adding enough layers as we walked, and it took me a long time to warm up once in the lodge.
Our previous lodge in Namche did not have a suitable room available for us this time so our guide arranged for us to stay at a different lodge.
Our measurements
Distance: 11.1 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 566 m
Nett elevation gain: 3440 m – 3810 m = -370 m
Day 17: Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
My husband went on a walk up to Khunde and Khumjung (3780 m) using a clockwise circular route. He visited the monastery in Khumjung where a “yeti” skull is on display (entrance fee applies).
I had developed a cold, so decided to stay in Namche. I showered and washed my hair as our bathroom had hot water from electric geysers. We decided we would sacrifice a dry bathroom floor for a hot shower 😉. I then went down to a bakery and enjoyed a lovely fresh cinnamon bun and tea.
When my husband returned from his exploration, we went into town again.
Our measurements
Distance: 9.5 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 540 m
Nett elevation gain: 0 m
Day 18: Namche Bazaar (3440 m) to Phakding (2610 m)
We had tea at the lodge before we left and bought goods at the bakery to eat a bit later. I should mention that the rate you pay for your lodge accommodation assumes that you will eat most of meals at the lodge.
The start is down, down the Namche hill.
It was mainly chilly today; I had my gloves on and off all day as conditions varied. As on our way up to Namche, there were large numbers of mule and dzopkhyo trains and their associated droppings. There were also large numbers of trekkers on their way up. I assume that there must have been flight cancellations in preceding days resulting in a backup of trekkers.
We stopped in Bengkar for lunch. I had lovely soup made from home-grown pumpkin and my husband had Sherpa stew.
On the first night of our trek, our lodge bedroom in Phaking was cold as it did not receive any direct sunlight, and our bathroom only had cold water. Knowing that there were most likely better options, my husband booked a different lodge online. This time, our bedroom was warmer, though smaller than most. My husband used the solar-heated luke-warm water to wash but I ordered a bowl of hot water. It was a bonus that the lodge supplied us with towels.
Our measurements
Distance: 12 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 304 m
Nett elevation gain: 2610 m – 3440 m = -830 m
Day 19: Phakding (2610 m) to Lukla (2840 m)
I dressed warmly as it was a cold morning but shed my layers later as usual. It was a partly cloudy day. Early on, the trail was quiet except for mule trains.
After ascending the Lukla hill we stopped at the municipal office to check out.
That afternoon my husband went to the airline office to try and arrange for an earlier flight back to Kathmandu. The airline representative put us on his list and told him to come back the next afternoon.
Our measurements
Distance: 7.5 km
Cumulative elevation gain: 450 m
Nett elevation gain: 2840 m – 2610 m = 230 m
Day 20: Lukla (2840 m)
We spent the morning in a coffee shop that had a sun-filled enclosed patio.
Planes were taking off all morning, so we were hopeful when my husband saw the airline representative that afternoon. The news was however not positive – none of the flights had been to Kathmandu; they had been cancelled as there was congestion at Kathmandu’s airport. He was told to return the next morning at 11:00.
I spent the afternoon reading in our sunny warm room.
Day 21: Kathmandu
We had a relaxing morning in the same coffee shop, chatting to other trekkers.
When we visited the airline representative at 11:00, he told my husband to return at 13:00. At 13:05, my husband sent me a message saying, “Pack – we need to be at the airport before 14:00.”
The airport was chaotic with people pushing to try and get ahead of one another. After some time, we got our boarding passes and our bags were weighed. When we saw the pilots heading to the plane, we knew we were about to depart. The departure lounge door was opened, a flight was called (we assumed it was ours), we boarded the plane and a few minutes later we took off. Before the plane lifted, the take-off made me feel as though I was on the downhill of a rollercoaster.
The views of the majestic Himalayas from the plane were a fitting ending to our wonderful adventure.
When we landed in Kathmandu, an airport bus was waiting for us and our luggage.
It was good to know that we were back in Kathmandu with no further potential obstacles to being in time for our flights back home.
Day 22: Kathmandu
Swayambhunath
After we returned to Kathmandu, we visited Swayambhunath, a Buddhist temple and World Heritage Site. It was a short 10-minute taxi ride from our hotel.
We went up the eastern stairway. The monkeys were much better behaved than expected.
References:
You may also like:
Slow trek to Gokyo – Part 1 – Kathmandu to Namche
Slow trek to Gokyo – Part 2 – Namche Bazaar
2 replies on “Slow trek to Gokyo – Part 4 – Gokyo to Kathmandu”
Very interesting looks like you guys had a wonderful trip
We certainly did – thank you 🙂